"Surfing is their art. They are the artists of their sport."

The
Movie_

-43°45'92.56’’ N 147°26'99.14" E

Date

January 2020

Cinematography / Edit

Olivier Sautet

Watershots

Dave Fox

Photography

Nick Green

Story

 

Surfeurs libres.

Dion is sporting a black beanie, black sunglasses (that he only takes off when he’s in the water), baggie pants, rings on every finger, and low-key tattoos on his arms. Brendon is standing next to him. With his short hair, skin so white you’d think it hadn’t seen the sun in months, and fitted t-shirt, he looks like a star student.

They’re as far as you can get from the sun-tanned, long blond-haired surfer stereotype. But they happen to be two of the world’s most talented freesurfers whose approaches to riding waves sets them apart from the standard surfing clichés.

As freesurfers, they don’t have to adapt their surfing to fit contest judging criteria or adopt the personal discipline required to achieve success in elite-level competition. They can afford themselves the luxury of deciding how they want to surf and what they want to get out of the surfing experience. They’re colorful, off-the-wall characters, heavily influenced by all things artistic, for who the act of surfing is all about freedom and aesthetics. Their vision of surfing is the exact opposite of the most common image of surfing today promoted by the WSL, where competitive performances and contest results are king.

 

Read the story

"As if addicted to the ocean and the waves, Dion and Brendon have a constant desire to surf."

-43°45'92.56" N 147°21'99.14" E

Spots

  • Bruny Islands

    - Cloudy Bay -
  • Secrets spots

    -  -
Stay
free

"It pulls us back to our origins when the spirit of surfing was about simply enjoying the feeling of gliding on water."

Stay
arty

Nick Green
About
Tasmania’s rugged coastline and raw ocean is his main focus.
-43°45'92.56" N 147°26'99.14" E

"This unbridled creativity is like a breath of fresh air."

Stay
pure

In front of the lens, they’re creating an image, expressing an emotion. They’re capturing a moment they perceive to be a work of art.

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